Marina Hoermanseder LFW catwalk show

This Berlin-based, French-Austrian designer presented a stunning offering, revealing new takes on corsetry and a fine talent for material manipulation by using leather in entirely unprecedented ways. Buckles and fastenings punctuated the lion’s share of garments that went down the runway; many pieces were sculpted to a rich degree with leather corsets moulded to the body. Studded PVC and harnesses were also to be seen, making this a welcome wardrobe for a budding ‘fetishista’.

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Highly conceptual in tone, the garments were created as an ode to orthopaedic support apparatuses, naked cats and brain structures. Unusual references indeed but they only serve to further highlight Marina’s accomplishment at transforming uncomely inspirations into a thing of beauty.

The palette was pleasing in its subtlety with inoffensive nude, taupe, fawn-hued leather, copper corsets, maroon shoe-boots and berry shaded tights. There was too some harmonising in the colour scheme for each ensemble with sheer grey being complemented by rose pink, for example.

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The repeated motifs of belt infrastructure had an individuating effect and showed that, despite the power of the more daring pieces, the small details held sway. Therefore the skirts comprised exclusively of interlocking belts impressed while belt print hosiery, the leather buckles gathering the sleeves and the mini belts in the hair all charmed. The tresses were styled with the dainty gestures of a braid but were otherwise high, while the make-up was fresh and minimal with pearlescent cheeks being the literal highlight.

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The collection included interesting outerwear with elaborate leather capes, collarless jackets, and cocoon shapes but these avant garde elements were balanced with more commercial numbers, in particular the classic trench was very desirable and wearable. The boldness of the progressive cuts with the side-split zip skirts, the cutaway chaps and leather waistcoats was offset by the gentleness of the luxe fabrics, the ruffles, pencil skirts and cashmere shorts.

With such pioneering design it is unsurprising to learn that Marina honed her craft at Alexander McQueen and already has Lady Gaga as a client, although still maintains a natural and calm presence.

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There were no dramas backstage, she had the most serene demeanour and at one point a paparazzi and I acknowledged the cuteness of her endearing hand holding with her partner after the pre-show rehearsals. It was a pleasure to witness this utterly unique collection.

Carly Florentine

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